PFAS-free cookware: stainless, cast iron, carbon steel, ceramic and enamel compared

What the labels mean, and what they do not

PFAS is a large family of man-made chemicals. PTFE, the coating sold under several brand names as a nonstick surface, is one of them. This page does not say what any chemical does to anyone's health. It explains what the words on a box mean, so you can pick what you are comfortable with.

• PFAS-free: the maker says the product contains no PFAS. Look for the maker's own statement, and a test or certification if one is named.
• PTFE-free: the coating is not PTFE. That is narrower than PFAS-free, so read which one the label says.
• PFOA-free: PFOA is one specific chemical that is no longer used in most US nonstick manufacturing. A pan labeled PFOA-free can still have a PTFE coating, so this label alone does not mean PFAS-free.
• Non-toxic: a marketing term that is not a defined standard for cookware. Treat it as a claim made by the seller, and check the material list and any named testing instead.
• Regulation: several US states have been passing rules about PFAS in consumer products, and the details and dates differ by state. Check the current rules where you live if it matters to you.

Materials compared

• Stainless steel: durable and usually dishwasher safe, with no coating to wear off. Food can stick unless the pan is heated and oiled properly, and cheap thin sets heat unevenly. Look for a thicker base or layered construction.
• Cast iron: very long lasting and heavy, and it holds heat well. It is seasoned with oil, and it needs hand washing and drying. Enameled cast iron does not need seasoning, though the enamel can chip if dropped.
• Carbon steel: lighter than cast iron and also seasoned. Common in restaurant kitchens, and it takes a little practice to keep the surface slick.
• Ceramic nonstick: a coating that is sold as an alternative to PTFE. Many brands describe it as a sol-gel coating. It is usually slick when new, and makers' care instructions typically ask for lower heat and no metal utensils. Ask what the coating is made of, and read the maker's warranty terms for how long it is expected to last.
• Enamel on steel: light and often inexpensive, and good for stockpots and roasting. Chips can expose the metal underneath.
• Glass and clay: useful for baking and slow cooking, and they behave differently on the stove, so check the maker's directions for your range.

Care and making it last

• Follow the maker's care sheet, since it is tied to the warranty.
• Heat gradually, and do not leave an empty pan on a hot burner.
• Use wood, silicone or nylon utensils on coated pans.
• For cast iron and carbon steel, dry the pan right after washing and wipe on a thin layer of oil.
• For stainless steel, a short soak and a non-scratch scrubber handle most stuck-on food.
• Replace a coated pan that is flaking or deeply scratched, as the maker's guidance directs.

Our angle: cost per year, and sets versus single pieces

A cookware set looks like a bargain until you count the pieces you will never use. A good method is to list the pans you cook with every week, usually a skillet, a saucepan and a larger pot, and price those as single pieces. Then compare that total with a set that includes them, and count the rest of the set as free only if you will really use it.

To compare materials, divide the price by the number of years you expect it to last. A cast iron skillet or a stainless pan can last many years with care, while a coated nonstick pan may need replacing sooner, so a lower sticker price does not always mean a lower yearly cost. We do not state how long any product lasts, so use the maker's warranty as a guide.

1. List the pans you use every week.
2. Price them as single pieces, then price the set.
3. Divide each price by the years of use you expect.
4. Check that the pans work on your stove, including induction if you have it.

Choosing a holiday gift

Cookware is a popular holiday gift, and a single well-made piece is often better than a boxed set, because it is something the person will use. A cast iron skillet, an enameled Dutch oven or a stainless saucepan are common choices. Check the cooktop type of the person you are buying for, and keep the gift receipt. See our Christmas gift ideas by budget for more, and our guides on reusable food storage and eco-friendly sponges for the rest of the kitchen.

Other stores

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• Kitchen tools and cookbooks at Milk Street